Tram 11: Viadukt - Fügnerova - Vratislavice n.N., výhybna - Jablonec n. N., Tyršovy sady

ROUTE FUNCTION
The role of this unique intercity route is obvious — a link between two statutory cities and their agglomerations. It also offers a connection to Proseč nad Nisou, which lies between them. Although the route is paralleled along most of its length by the Liberec–Tanvald railway, passenger numbers are high. During peak hours line 11 is therefore supplemented between Liberec and Vratislavice nad Nisou by line 5, which conversely serves as a shortened version of line 11 at times of lower demand.

The number 11 has, from the beginning to the present day, been continuously connected with the intercity tram line. The history of the number 11 in Liberec public transport thus coincides with the history of this line.

  • 1948: construction of the line from Jablonec to Liberec (in that direction) began. Until then transport had been provided by buses.
  • 1951: the Jablonec nad Nisou - Proseč nad Nisou section was put into operation; the remaining section was served by buses.
  • 1953: the Proseč nad Nisou - Vratislavice nad Nisou section was put into operation.
  • 1 January 1955: the last section, the Jablonec nad Nisou - Liberec, Fügnerova line, was put into operation, and line number 11 took on its final form.
  • 1 May 2024: after a several-year series of closures, the re-gauging of the entire line from the original 1000 mm to standard gauge 1435 mm was completed.

Just as the route is unique for the public, it is of course unique for tram drivers too. I am not a tram driver myself, but from my colleagues I have taken away these main points: the line has a very tight timetable so that the meetings at passing loops can be kept (which, even so, regularly cannot be kept at some spots). This is in direct conflict with the fact that the services are very busy for most of the day (mainly between Liberec and Vratislavice; the section between Proseč and Jablonec, on the other hand, can often be driven through without stopping), that the track was for a long time in a catastrophic state in various sections, and finally that accidents often happen at a great many places with poor visibility. Especially accident-prone are Vratislavice and Proseč nad Nisou, where the track is crossed by a great many small streets as well as busy roads. On top of that, even the traffic lights often do not work reliably. Until the major closure from 18 July 2021, it was necessary to drive slowly on some sections because of the state of the track. But even where it was not necessary, passengers felt the state of the track.

The whole route up to Viadukt is shown in this footage, filmed on a beautiful winter day. My thanks to my colleague Martin B. for the tram footage.

JABLONEC NAD NISOU, TYRŠOVY SADY - LIBEREC, VIADUKT

In the opposite direction you will see a variant starting at Fügnerova. In normal operation these are only the last two departing services and the night services; during closures it is driven this way regularly.

LIBEREC, FÜGNEROVA - JABLONEC NAD NISOU, TYRŠOVY SADY

As a bonus video you can also see one of the last services on the metre gauge during a thunderstorm. This time in real time, without speeding up.

JABLONEC NAD NISOU, TYRŠOVY SADY - LIBEREC, FÜGNEROVA

But line 11 also concerns bus drivers, because of the frequent closures during which buses often have to take over the line. When the closure route is straightforward, it simply runs along Jablonecká and Tanvaldská streets and then the old I/14 road. The route is simple, but as for the heavy passenger load and the resulting delays, the same of course applies as for the trams. You can watch the usual closure route in the following videos with an Iveco Urbanway CNG #542 and back with an articulated Solaris Urbino 18 IV CNG #590. However, since closures often also involve repairs of the associated roads, diversions are frequent even on the closure route. They cannot all be covered here, but you will find some of them further below.

CLOSURE ROUTE: LIBEREC, RYBNÍČEK - JABLONEC NAD NISOU, TYRŠOVY SADY

CLOSURE ROUTE: JABLONEC NAD NISOU, TYRŠOVY SADY - LIBEREC, RYBNÍČEK

Worth mentioning is the closure between Vratislavice and Jablonec, during which it was driven all the way to Mírové náměstí. Here you can see the operation at the passing loop, where passengers transfer from tram to bus and vice versa. It is a transfer point used when the closure does not cover the entire length of the route.

CLOSURE ROUTE: VRATISLAVICE NAD NISOU, VÝHYBNA - JABLONEC NAD NISOU, MÍROVÉ NÁMĚSTÍ

CLOSURE ROUTE: JABLONEC NAD NISOU, MÍROVÉ NÁMĚSTÍ - VRATISLAVICE NAD NISOU, VÝHYBNA
5+11: A WORLD-UNIQUE INTERCITY TRAM ROUTE

Both lines run on the same route and overlap, so they share a single local-geography article.

A link between the largest cities of the Liberec Region

The second tram route passing through Liberec also deserves a superlative from me. You may think I am biased because I grew up in the region. Of course I am a little, but how else to describe a route that people come to ride from literally all over the world, precisely for its uniqueness and beauty? The uniqueness lies in certain technical parameters, but also in the beauty of the nature it passes through. The technical points of interest are discussed in more detail in the line's history. Now to the local geography.

In the background, the old Ještěd department store being demolished.

The route is intercity, which in itself is also not exactly typical for a tram route. It connects the two largest cities of the Liberec Region — Liberec and Jablonec nad Nisou. The very fact that Liberec lies in a basin and Jablonec somewhat higher in the Jizera Mountains suggests that the route will pass through beautiful Jizera Mountains scenery. I am proud that I used the 11 a lot as a passenger, because in my childhood and youth I travelled to family in Proseč nad Nisou along the way, and later, when we moved to Jablonec for a time, I would travel to Liberec and back to see friends. What did I experience on each of those journeys?

Through the centre of Liberec alongside the other lines

From Liberec the tram usually sets out from the Viadukt loop, which still belongs to the city route, and here we can also meet the trains of lines 2 and 3. The journey begins with a steep hill to the first important stop — Nádraží. On the left we pass the bus station, on the right is the railway station. Right after the next junction we pass the odd functionalist Uran building, and opposite it the open space where the old majestic customs house once stood. There the route changes gradient and we go downhill, a hill which thousands of people travel every day between the stations and the public transport terminal. On the slope we pass the famous Hotel Imperial, today run by a private company. At the bottom of the hill we meet the turn-off to the Rybníček depot and the stop of the same name. I often used this stop to board before the terminal, because at the terminal a crowd of people usually waits and reliably fills the whole set. Between Rybníček and the Fügnerova terminal we also pass the house of culture, a few small shops, Soukenné náměstí and the Fórum shopping centre, which today dominates the lower centre. It is not so long ago that the famous Ještěd department store with its unique design stood here. At the Fügnerova terminal the tram usually waits until its departure time and finally sets off straight onto the route to Jablonec, still on the metre gauge.

Tram no. 5 and the Holy Trinity Church.

A scenic ride past craters

Without the tram leaving the city centre, one suddenly finds oneself in a strange world. One of the sad distinctions of the city of Liberec — besides the highest debt and the highest area of shopping centres per person — is that right in the centre it has huge holes and wastelands left by unfinished construction. The first crater has been slumbering for years right next to the public transport terminal. We reach the second monument only a moment later; it is more of a wasteland. This wasteland is what remained after the demolition of the former huge Textilana works in 2005. As a child I still remember it; the tram used to drive around the whole complex and I would watch it from the window of my great-grandmother's flat. We always complained that the trams squealed on the curves. In 2011 the tram route was straightened through the complex, and shopping centres were first meant to rise around it, then flats. Yet to this day nothing has been built, so for years the tram has passed through an empty space lined with the remains of building foundations, on which an almost pointless stop sticks out, recalling the faded glory of Textilana. After overcoming this sad sight we reach a pond that once served this factory. It does not look very nice, but it is better than a wasteland. Further on, the route on its own track-bed mercilessly cuts through a hill to swing up above Liberec to the so-called rušička — a hill apparently named after a former signal jammer. Right behind the rušička we reach a social-care institution, opposite which a new modern housing estate has been built. But even that does not much hinder the wonderful view of Ještěd, its whole ridge and the southern Liberec districts. It is precisely that part of the ridge behind which the sun sets for most of the year, so on my trips to Liberec pubs I always sat on the left side. Now, however, we have to descend again into the valley of the Nisa river. We pass the Pivovarská and Lékárna stops. At present there really is a pharmacy (lékárna) by the Lékárna stop, and near Pivovarská is the Konrad brewery.

A forest section of the route with 1960s Tatra T2R trams.

Vratislavice nad Nisou

We finally reach the Vratislavice nad Nisou, kostel stop. Here comes relief for the people of Proseč and Jablonec, because about half the tram now gets off and heads for the large Vratislavice housing estate. We must not forget the unique Holy Trinity Church on the right. We descend a gentle hill to the passing loop where the 5 terminates, and a little further on we continue along the old, as yet unreconstructed track (2021). One recognises the change in the track's age without looking at the rails or knowing the historical background. From a fairly ordinary ride the tram suddenly begins to jump and throw you in all directions, so that at times it is hard to stay in your seat. The development has thinned out and the route has finally entered the picturesque rural valley of the Nisa river. Before long the route even almost merges for a time with railway line 036. In places the tracks are literally only a few metres apart, and it is not unusual to see a train passing alongside a tram running slightly lower. The route follows the course of the Nisa and, across meadows, little woods, minor roads and past mostly older buildings (in places very close), it races through the village of Proseč nad Nisou. In Proseč there used to be the boundary between the Liberec and Jablonec parts of the route; now it is at least the boundary of the tariff zones. It is a pleasant sight in any season. The combination of the picturesque old sub-Ještěd landscape with the old track takes the passenger a few decades back. Here and there we come across some industrial plant making use of the fall of the Nisa; you can even pass the skeleton of a never-finished multi-storey warehouse, which sticks out like a sore thumb beyond the Proseč, pošta stop. The best-known plant in the valley, however, is the Vratislavice mineral water works (Vratislavická kyselka) with its unique but, sadly, markedly dilapidated building. The kyselka has not operated for many years, but recently a new investor took over the building and would like, after reconstruction, to start producing drinks there. A plant making lifts then ends Proseč and starts the next section, in my opinion the most beautiful.

The Jablonec nad Nisou, Tyršovy sady terminus.

Through deep forest

What follows is a no-man's-land between Proseč and Jablonec nad Nisou. But it is a beautiful no-man's-land. Calm, quiet. The quiet and calm are disturbed only by the occasional passing tram or train. Even the road has been quiet ever since the expressway between Liberec and Jablonec via Kunratice was opened. The tram passes through the pure Jizera Mountains with everything that belongs to them — dense spruce growth, mountain ferruginous streams and typical granite crags. Through this environment the track slowly climbs to Jablonec, along a valley carved out over millennia by the Nisa river. The most beautiful view is on the journey the other way, that is, from Jablonec. If you sit on the right side, you can see the whole valley, in which, on cold evenings or early mornings of late summer, fog drifts. I will never stop being grateful that I can see such pictures during such ordinary activities as travelling to work, from work, to family, to friends. Each such activity suddenly becomes extraordinary and one feels no need to shorten the journey. The journey suddenly becomes the destination.

The forest ends with the chimney of the Jablonec heating plant Brandl; at the same time, the tram here again briefly meets the train at the Jablonec lower station, with its beautiful station building, which, however, long ago lost its importance. It is not so long ago that almost no train even stopped at this station. After the Brandl passing loop the tram only climbs to the first Jablonec housing estate and then descends to Tyršovy sady, where it terminates. Tyršovy sady is a park, but for some reason it is not a very suitable place to rest. At present we do not get to see much of Jablonec from the tram, because we end at its edge. An extension at least to the bus station has, however, been actively discussed in recent years. It seemed the construction was imminent, but the subsequent political disputes reminded everyone that nothing is certain until it is done. Bringing the route closer to the centre of Jablonec would undoubtedly increase its importance.

Contributors: Boveraclub (historical records), Liberecká podniková (videos, proofreading), Tomáš Krupička Sr. (local facts) and others.
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